Destinations
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Farewell from Abu Simbel temple on Nasser Lake
Four seated monumental statues of pharaoh Ramesses II facing lake Nasser. You would already have guessed, I am looking at Abu Simbel temple. This is my last step before crossing the border into Sudan. One last time, Egypt will fill my eyes with wonders. Abu Simbel site, it is the colossal temples of Ramesses II (1279-1231 BC) and of his wife Nefertari. But also a quiet Nubian town on Nasser lake and the departing point to Wadi Halfa in nearby Sudan. The high dam of Aswan flooded large areas of Nubia in Southern Egypt and Northern Sudan in the 1960s. Unesco saved several major archaeological sites such as the Abu…
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Hatchepsut, the female pharaoh & Queens Valley
Hatchepsut, the female pharaoh… If I say pharaoh, you surely picture a nice good looking topless man, wearing a stylish beard and a white linen loincloth. His eyes are circled with khôl, a gorgeous gold and lapis lazuli pectoral around his neck. On his shaved head, the characteristic red and white Egyptian crown and in his hands the sceptre and a whip. It is very unlikely you would picture a woman, nor associate a woman with the role of pharaoh. This makes Hatchepsut a very interesting pharaoh. I knew her mortuary temple from pictures on travel websites. But I had no notions of who she was, of how unusual she…
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Inside Luxor temple and the tombs in the Valley of Kings
Luxor and Karnak are among the biggest temples of Ancient Egypt. Both temples are located in Thebes, the former capital of the empire, now called Luxor. The scale of the constructions here is incredible. Not only did the Egyptians build these wonders out of the ground. They also constructed inside the surrounding mountains the greatest royal necropolis. At least 150 kings and queens are buried in the region. Empires rise and fall. So did the empire of pharaohs. After 30 centuries of domination, the rule of pharaohs declined. A new power emerged with the development of the Roman empire and then the birth of Islam. Yet, Ancient Egypt remains one…
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Beauties of Nubia II: St Simeon Monastery and Nile River Cruise
Aswan region is worldwide famous for its Philae temple on nearby Agilkia island. St Simeon Monastery is now a ruin but still a strong demonstration of Christian development in Nubia during the 7th century. Cruising on the Nile is not only a delightful experience but also like travelling back in time. The river banks host testimonials of ancient empires and civilisations that inhabited the region during the past centuries. One of the driest cities in the world, Aswan was however a significant political and religious centre. Its influence reached large parts of the population under the Pharaohs, Coptic Christians and Arabs rulings. There is something I particularly like about Nubia. Its…
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Beauties of Nubia I: Elephantine island and Philae temple
Nubia is a different country, a treasure. The Elephantine island and Philae temple are jewels on the Nile. Nubians are extraordinarily friendly and welcoming. They have their own languages, culture, music and architecture. Aswan is a perfect spot for exploring the region. The pace of things is slower here, as an invitation to relax and enjoy. The blue waters of the Nile contrast with the golden dunes. On the banks, smooth rocks and thick vegetation flourish. The dance of feluccas and motor boats start at sunrise and stops at midnight. The flavour of Nubian cuisine is in the air. This place is certainly very different from Cairo and Saqqara in the…
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Travel Tips: Visa and overland border crossing Egypt-Sudan-Ethiopia
How to get the visa for Sudan and Ethiopia? How long does it take and how much does it cost? How to cross the border from Egypt to Sudan and then to Ethiopia? How to get through the Sudanese registration process? I found little information on the topic while I was organizing my trip. Hopefully this post will help fill the gaps. I crossed overland the Egypt/Sudan border and the Sudan/Ethiopia border in February 2018. Keep in mind that this is Africa, things can change quickly. I have a French passport and met several other European travellers (UK, Germany, Ireland, Netherlands) who went through the same procedures. Getting the Visa…
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Pyramids, Coptic churches, traffic… the many faces of Cairo, Egypt
I believe Egypt is the only country I heard so many contradictory opinions about. Some would tell how wonderful and incredible it is to see the pharaohs monuments and sail on the river Nile. Others would say it is chaotic, noisy and dirty everywhere, especially in Cairo. And then there will always be the ones warning you against travelling there because “it is a dangerous place”. The fact there are so many different perceptions of the very same place intrigue me. Of course, I learned at school about the great Ramses II, Toutankhamun and the mummies found inside pyramids and hidden tombs. But that was 2 to 5 thousands years…
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Kingdom of the Northern Lights – Tromsø, Norway
Norway, kingdom of fjords and Northern Lights, ancient territory of Vikings, first producer of salmon in the world, and one of the most expensive countries in Europe. It is indeed all this, and so much more. The northern city of Tromsø is also nicknamed “Petit Paris” or “Little Paris”. I discovered a charming city, full of little secrets. Besides trying reindeer dishes, I found myself attending a Yin Yoga course for the first time in 10 years. On my last night, the sky turned green and started its celestial dance. A 2 hour show I shall never forget! / Culture and gastronomy in “Little Paris” North of the Arctic…
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Summertime in the Iceberg City of Greenland – Ilulissat
Greenland is often seen as a far away northern territory, entirely white, kingdom of the Inuit wearing fur clothes and of the endangered yet majestic polar bear. While there is some truth in this statement, it does however give a very narrow and incomplete vision of the ground reality. / Flying over the Greenlandic icecap / The iceberg city: a smart blend of historical and modern / An ancient world of ice… yet full of life / The fastest glacier in the world / Once upon a time in far far away Oqaatsut / Related: Greenland, Ilulissat, Disko Bay, Rodebay, Oqaatsut, Semmermiut, iceberg, ice fjord, glacier, icecap,…
